> the more "corporate" restaurant groups are growing but the less well capitalized small businesses are in a world of hurt
Within the <$50/diner category, yes. It seems this is where the new Applebees/Ruby Tuesdays are forming. Above that, there is an explosion of creativity in the fine and pseudufine dining categories.
Here in the city, it's not just the Applebees/Ruby Tuesdays who are growing; there's another emerging level of corporate food service.
For example, a friend of mine is a data scientist who reports up into the CFO of a company that owns around 10 restaurants in New York, California, and Las Vegas. The flagship of the brand is a Michelin-starred celebrity chef.
His entire job is presenting to executives the profitability impact of experiments in changing the formulation of espresso martinis and leek soup. He says that the company is entirely, quantitatively, incrementally profit driven and "joyless, from the executive team down to the dishwashers". It honestly sounds to me like the most miserable, furthest possible thing from the romantic old new york storytelling of Anthony Bordain that could still be legally called restauranteuring.
How would you even assess the profitability of a small recipe change? You'd only notice by the time a customer comes back and there are so many variables (and time) going into that I can't imagine you could really get some signal out of your a/b-test of a few drops of chili oil in the soup.
If you have 10 restaurants you could do A/B tests.
This is massively prevalent for food science and prepackaged goods (through panels and such; usually not to the end customer). Seems like restaurants are catching up.
I've also seen people test two ingredients, one cheap and one not. If their sample can't tell the difference, it flies. The problem is, we're each sensitive to different things. So while I may not notice the difference between a pricey and mid-range whisky, I will notice when you sub out the Chartreuse. Meanwhile, my neighbor will likely be the opposite. Rinse and repeat this process and you get the beige this process predictably produces.
> only change I saw was a growth of fine dining Korean food
I can count half a dozen on my block in Flatiron alone. The only Korean fine-dining place to have opened near me is Nōksu, and I'm a few blocks from Koreatown.
Within the <$50/diner category, yes. It seems this is where the new Applebees/Ruby Tuesdays are forming. Above that, there is an explosion of creativity in the fine and pseudufine dining categories.